The sun-exposed, schist-dominated slopes of Savennières can yield the most thunderously complex and powerful expressions of dry Chenin Blanc in the world. Ripe, broad, driven by immense acidity and usually layered with notes of noble rot and oxidative winemaking, these are wines that invigorate yet are so dense that they take a long time to chew through.
Domaine du Closel, operated from the Chateau des Vaults by Evelyne de Pontbriand, is one of the most esteemed producers of Savennières. With meticulous biodynamic farming, low yields even for the appellation’s standard, and minimalist but exact winemaking, they produce savoury wines that are as powerful as they are digestible.
We now stock 3 of their wines: the steely, non-botrytised and non-oak-aged ‘La Jalousie’ made for early drinking, the lush and oxidative ‘Les Caillardieres’ and the age-worthy grand cru ‘Clos du Papillon’. Although it’s built for the long haul, ‘Les Caillardieres’ 2016 is drinking beautifully right now!