Céline and Laurent Tripoz: Stripping Macon down to its essence.

Céline and Laurent Tripoz are an admirably non-flashy vigneron couple that’s been quietly churning out transcendent Macon wines for almost three decades. They don’t seem to get the international hype that their wines merit – and nor do they seek it, judging from the their humble labelling – but the Tripoz’s low-to-no-sulphur Burgurgundies are the best we’ve ever tasted at this price point.

Domaine Tripoz was born in 1987, in the tiny Macon village of Loché known for its beautiful 12th century church. Céline and Laurent both originate in Loché and have known each other since childhood. Today they run an estate with 14 hectares of biodynamically tended vineyards, from which they produce 11 gorgeously mineral-driven, low-intervention wines.

Our first shipment of Tripoz wines came in late november and was pretty much sold out before Christmas. Man were we impressed by the sheer quality that Céline and Laurent are able to squeeze from their less-than-stellar terroir. In fact, our staff might be personally responsible for the deliciously raw Aligoté ‘Limone’ 2019 being permanently sold out now. Sorry about that..

Luckily we we’re able to get a comfortable second allocation (one of the few upsides of the pandemic) of the following cuvées, which just came in:

1. Bourgogne Rouge ‘Chant de la Tour’ 2019 (22,95 euro)

Pitch-perfect Bourgogne Pinot Noir that even without decanting or further aging hits all the right notes. Deep, spherical, almost-sweet cherry fruit; a yeasty crunch that’s fully integrated rather obscuring; and delicious tension between palate-tingling vertical and driving linear acidity.

2. Macon-Loché ‘Cuvée du Clocher’ 2019 (17,80)

A truly superlative entry-level white Burgundy. Fiercely mineral and precise, a core of creamy yellow Macon-fruit framed by Chenin-like acidic structure and lingering salinity. Not a wine for oak-heads, although we think all Chardonnay lovers should open themselves up to its bare-boned complexity at least once.

3. Bourgogne Blanc ‘Les Chenes’ 2019 (20,93)

Beautiful Chardonnay from a small plot of 70 year-old vines that’s been worked organically since 1970. Unsulphured vinification in old oak barrels yields a richly layered wine packed with cream, honey and spice. On the palate it is surprisingly fresh and vibrant, its mineral texture feeling very much in flux and ‘alive’. Profound stuff.

4. Crémant de Bourgogne ‘Nature’ Brut 

Deliciously pure and fun Crémant that has long been a pillar of quality-conscious bistrot wine lists across France. 100% Chardonnay from clay-limestone soils, vinified without added sulphites at any stage. Although usually bone-dry, this current bottling dances gracefully on the cusp of sweetness, fatty and cushiony but with plenty of refreshing crunch.