Biodynamically farmed 60-year-old Gamay vines on a steep slope and 140-year-old vines near the flatter hilltop of lieu-dit ‘Chapelle des Bois’. Hand-harvest, vigorous sorting in the vineyard and on the table. Whole-bunch fermentation without sulfites and other inputs in concrete tanks, aging in the tank, and used oak barrels (Duperray has since gradually fazed out oak use in his red wines and as of 2015 uses none at all). Minimal S02 added after one year of elevage, bottled unfined, and unfiltered after two years of aging.
Domaine Jules Desjourneys
Fabien Duperray has been a renowned agent for top-level Burgundy producers (among which Romanee-Conti, Coche-Dury and Arnaud Ente) for more than 25 years, but had no production of its own until 2007. Then he got the chance to buy a number of very old vine parcels in the best lieu-dits of Moulin-a-Vent and Fleurie, from which he has since made wines that are as rare as they are groundbreaking.
From the vineyard to the wine cellar, Duperray spares no effort or cost. He cultivates his vineyards according to biodynamic principles and plows only with a horse (Duperray feels a tractor has too great an impact on the soil structure). His grapes are hand-picked at maximum maturity, with yields kept extremely low (often below 30 hl/ha). After fermentation (mostly whole bunches, with natural yeasts and no added sulfites), the wine is aged for up to 36 months in tanks or fiberglass containers (previously old oak), and even after bottling Duperray keeps the wine in its cellars until he thinks they are ready for the market.
Since 2012 Duperray has expanded his portfolio of appellations, adding Chenas and Morgon to the Beaujolais list but also starting a collaboration with Domaine Thibert in Southern Burgundy. 2014 was the first vintage in which Duperray produced a range of stellar Chardonnays from beautiful organically farmed terroirs in Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, Pouilly-Vinzelles and Saint-Veran, as well as Macon-Verzé and Macon-Fuissé since 2016.