Nederlands
Apr
Producers
Desjourneys: Iconische wijnen uit de Beaujolais en Mâconnais
‘Grand Cru’ Beaujolais
Although there is no such thing as a Grand Cru Beaujolais, you definitely can say Desjourneys is far from every day. These wines are rare and in demand. Much of the Desjourneys disappear annually to the US and Asia, but in 2020 Covid halted this enviable export overseas. The cards turned in our direction and we were able to acquire an extra order of this divine nectar.
Fabien Duperray, the producer of Desjourneys is a known name for admirers of great wines. He is connected to DRC, Coche-Dury and Arnaud and Benoit Ente (also in stock). Fabien is their representative and advisor. Since 2007 he has been making wines under his own label Jules Desjourneys in Beaujolais and Mâconnais.
The domain name Jules Desjourneys (La Chapelle de Guinchay, east of Chénas) is a combination of Jules Chauvet – the godfather of natural wine – and fantasy surname Desjourneys. Desjourneys simply sounded nice, as Duperray states in many interviews. This shows the way Duperray mind evolves – his own direction. He does not make concessions. And only the best is good enough for Fabien, which makes sense. He is used to the best for over 25 years.
The Beaujolais vineyards are located in the cru-villages Fleurie, Moulin à Vent, Chénas and Morgon, vineyards from 65 to over 100 years old. The yields are exceptionally low, averaging about 20 hectoliters per hectare. After harvest, the bunches are selected very carefully on the freshest and healthiest fruits. After a whole-bunch and classic semi-carbonique, the young must is aged for 24 to 36 months in stainless steel and old, selected demi-muids (600 liter barrels).
Beaujolais Blanc and Côte de Mâconnais
Duperray is not an advocate of obvious use of oak. He prefers a strength of purity, structure and finesse. The wines have a storage potential of at least 25 years, an aging time normally not related to Gamay. Desjourneys Beaujolais are comparable to powerhouse Burgundy or the best of Northern Rhône.
Desjourney’s whites are just as exciting as its reds. He started making white Beaujolais and Mâconnais with purist Christophe Thibert from Fuissé in 2014. The wines can be described as tight, energetic Chardonnays. Strong, vibrant and clear cut. In recent years, Duperray starting using less oak for its white wines. He is even switching to glass fiber, which gives transparency and cleanliness.
We have been working with Duperray since the start of his domain. A selection of vintages are available in our shops now. The newest additions are the excellent 2015 reds and 2017 whites. These bottles belong to the absolute top of chart and also have a great storage potential. Definitely added value for the wine cellar but also ready-to-drink for the ones who have less patient and don’t mind an abundance of spice and energy.
Tasting notes
An extraordinary Beaujolais village that takes away all the prejudice from even the most high-brow Burgundy fanatic. It’s energetic and bursting with fruits. Black currants, blueberry, elegant with fresh floral notes and just enough of that black tea spice to give it a good backbone structure. The tanins are there, but not overpowering. This is juicy and refreshing. Drink slighlty chilled 16/18 C. 13,5 % alcohol. Drink now – 2018. Rijping RVS en Foeders
2015 was a beautiful vintage for the Beaujolais and producers created generous, powerful Gamays. The ‘Styx’ is made in the community of Moulin à Vent, close to the borders of Chénas. These vines age from 50 to even over 100 years and the yield is about 30 hl/ha. The plant density is extremely concentrated 10.000 to 14.000 plants per ha. The granite soil defines the style of this wine closer to Rhône Hermitage. Its aromas are rich and seducing. Rose pettles, licorice, black cherries and a hint of tar. The balance is exceptional, the wine is full bodied and harmonious.
The ‘Sacre Graal’ was produced from Duperrays two favorite vineyards, ‘Les Moriers’ an 80-year-old vineyard and ‘La Chapelle des Bois’ planted in 1893. In its character the Fleurie is the counterpart to the more masculine Moulin à Vent. You will recognize the Fleurie-style in the nose by its fruit forwardness. These are expressive and springy raspberry and morels. Simultaneously the structure on the palate is surprisingly powerful. The wine boasts acidity and tannins and the fruity and floral finish lingers for ages. Wine critics understandingly appreciated this wine with very high ratings e.g. Jancis Robinson (98/100) and Robert Parker (97/100).
Beaujolais-Villages Blanc 2017
White Beaujolais are a rarity. It only takes 1% of the total regional wine production. The Desjourneys Beau-Blanc are growing on granite soils, giving the wine a strong, lengthy acidity. The PH is exceptionally low 3.1 degrees. Since this vintage the whites are elevated on glass fiber, which provides an extreme clean palette. The aromas express citrus, honeycomb and crispy green orchard fruits. This Beau-Blanc is regarded as top three of its category.
Mâcon-Fuissé ‘Bois de la Croix’ 2017
You could consider this ‘just a Mâcon’, but the attitude of the ‘Bois de la Croix’ is closer to a great Pouilly. The body is medium high and creamy. The finish is mineral and structured. The comparison lies with a Chablis, but more southern and with a warmer finish. The influence of Arnaud Ente and Pierre Morey is certainly noticeable.
Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Vignes de la Côte’ 2017
This is Pouilly-Fuissé extra ordinaire. The complexity in aroma’s is like a journey. First the primairy zesty fruits, then you get creaminess of the malo and a long ripening on the fine yeasts and finally a long zesty, saline finish as in riesling. Half of the grapes are growing on schiste-soil, which is unusual and most farmers choose to sell those to negociants.
